Thank you for joining us today at Fresh's Workshop. If this is your first visit, welcome! If you're returning, we appreciate your continued support.
This is the spot where we build and repair all kinds of cool stuff, along with making a ton of saw dust. (Man Glitter.)
During our last session in the Workshop, we worked on our Sprinkler system for the yard here at the Homestead.
Before we begin today's project, let's take a moment and talk about shop safety:
Be sure to read, understand and follow all of the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember this, there is no greater safety rule than to wear safety glasses.
Today, I'm going out to the garden, as we are building a Mason Bee House. But don't worry, Mason Bees do NOT sting, and they are a great addition to any garden.
Our inspiration comes from Woodsmith magazine. You can subscribe to Woodsmith here: WOODSMITH
I have made several Woodsmith projects over the years, but my favorite is the TV cabinet I made for our Florida Room.
Yes, there is a TV in there!!
Check it out!
At the core of our Bee House are numerous cardboard tubes which the bees will fill with their larvae. You then harvest them. (That part is up to the Master Gardener in the family. I just build stuff)
Cardboard Mason Bee House Tubes
Avoid using plastic straws to save money; they are ineffective. Their small size and inability to absorb moisture are crucial in preventing mold on the cocoon. You can make the tubes out of paper, but that is extremely time consuming,
Our Bee House will be constructed from Cedar fence pickets acquired from the local Home Center. Cedar is resilient to weather conditions and is ideal for outdoor projects. I am also making a unit using cypress.
The majority of the Bee House is constructed from 3/4" pickets, which are planed down to 1/2 inch. The base will utilize a 3/4" picket. Begin with preparation.
Ensure that your cedar boards are straight and free of any bowing.
If you encounter a bowed board, it will necessitate correction. A 3/4 picket with a bow can be planed down to 5/8" to achieve a smooth, flat surface. Likewise, 5/8-inch picket can be reduced to 1/2 inch through plaining and will continue to function properly. As I possess a jointer and surface planer, this task is significantly easier. If you do not have access to a planer, select your boards with care.
This board a slight bow.
I will run this through my jointer, (bow up) until the bottom is nice and straight.
Then I pass it through my planer (bow up) until the bow disappears.
I have also discovered that boards from the Home Center require drying before use. Typically, I allow them to rest for a week or two the shop to utilization.
Additionally, boards tend to warp after plaining. My recommendation is plane them down, cut them to size, and glue them all in the same day.
The majority of these boards are "rough cut," indicating they are not smooth. However, this does not affect the project.
In general, I either plane them or sand them to achieve the smoothest finish possible. It is only necessary sand the parts that will be visible as the bees are not concerned with it.
BUILDING TIP # 587: Ensure that you use an outdoor glue for this project. I used Titebond III.
We are building this bee house in three sections. The center, and two sides.
Let's start with the center section.
Here is what you will need: (I will give you the Woodsmith dimensions)
2 - SIDES - 1/2 x 5 1/2 x 16
1 - LEFT ROOF 1/2 X 4 1/2 X 6
1 - RIGHT ROOF 1/2 X 4 1/2 X 6
4 - FLOORS 1/2 X 5 X 5
1 - BACK 1/2 X 5 X 18 1/4
Additionally, boards measuring 1/2 x 4.5 x 5 inches will be required to serve as collection nests. The quantity needed will be determined by the of your sections. (I constructed them at 6 x 6 inches and will trim them to the final size after the bee house is assembled.) Next, proceed to cut the slots. The router table will be utilized to create slots for the bees.
You also need to make sure that the grain of the wood goes in the same direction as the slots you will be cutting. You do not want to go 'cross grain.'
You might have to purchase a 5/16 box core bit for your router.
Adjust the router table fence to create a groove directly down the center of your 6" x 6" board. The groove should depth of 5/32 inches. Move the fence to 7/8" away from the bit and proceed to make the next cut. Subsequently, rotate the board 180 degrees and cut an additional groove.
Next, move the fence an additional 78" and perform the final cut. Once again, turn the board 180 degrees execute the last groove.
The top and bottom boards feature on only one side.
Further details will be provided shortly. Please continue reading!
To prepare the back piece, cut a board to the dimensions of 6" x 18 1/2". At the top, determine the center of the board.
Using an angle tool, draw lines at a 45-degree angle down from each side and proceed with the cuts. I cut the back slightly wider and longer, and I will trim it to size after the center section has been glued up
Using my 45-degree Angle Jig to cut the roof line
For the sides, cut 2 boards 5 1/2" x 16"At the top, cut a 45-degree angle.
You gotta get one of these angle dangle thingies. I got mine from AMAZON Cut a 1/2" wide rabbet that's 1/4" deep at the back to fit the rear panel.
Then, cut the dadoes to be 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep to fit the floors.
For the roof sections, cut 2 boards 4 1/2 x 6".To assemble the roof, you will need to make cuts in both. Here is a picture.
Cut the dado in the first piece, then cut a matching rabbit in the other. I used my regular saw blade and 'crept' up to the proper size.I then glued the two pieces together and put them in the vice so the glue could cure.
I then gave it a good sanding.With the roof and back completed, it's time for some assembly.First a dry fit.
You getting the idea?
OK, now we can glue this puppy up.P.O.T.U.S. 22 & 24 GROVER CLEVELAND
No, not that puppy.
I then glued the bottom floor.
One last item on the center section. Put on the roof.
I put some glue on the sides, then placed the roof on top. Then I predrilled for some nails to hold it in place while the glue dries.
(You might want to paint the roof first!!)
Last step is to center punch the nails, then fill the nail holes with a bit of plastic wood.
We can now proceed to add the backing. I have cut the back slightly longer and wider, allowing me to trim it to the size. Note: I needed to remove a 1/4 from the sides, ensuring that I cut 1/8 from each side; otherwise, the center would be misaligned.
I also trimmed the bottom after the back was nailed in place.
Now that the parts have been cut and glued together, it is time to tidy. I am beginning to trip over items on the floor, which is not advisable for an older individual the workshop.
Now that it's semi clean, we can at least walk around the shop in a safe manor.
So, let's take a break!!
Back to the task at hand.
To finish the center section, we need to cut the grooves into our tunnel blocks.
First, find the center of the block.
Please refrain from laughing at the router table; it belonged to my father.
You may now proceed to run first groove. Please remember that the top and bottom have grooves only on one side. Always ensure that you reference the same side of the cutter.It is essential to run grooves before changing the router table fence.
Once all the tunnel blocks have been grooved, adjust the router table fence outward by approximately one inch. (I adjusted mine 7/8 inch.) Proceed to run your next groove, flip the board over, and cut the subsequent groove. Rotate the board again and cut another groove. This process should be clear.
After all grooves have been cut, I utilized a dowel with 220-grit sandpaper to smooth the grooves.
To assist in aligning the holes, I utilized some 1/4 dowels, which were the closest size available to me. After aligning them as accurately as possible, I secured the sections together with tape to maintain their position. Subsequently, I removed the dowels. I then transported it to the drill press to refine the alignment the holes.
And the center section with the tunnel blocks in place.
The attempt was satisfactory. My second center section was slightly smaller, resulting in the center being misaligned. However, the grooves should function adequately, and the bees are indifferent to this.
The magazine version had some 2-inch dowels with holes drilled to make tunnels. I did not have any 2-inch dowels, so I looked online.
After reviewing the prices, I approached the wood lathe and crafted a few of my own at no cost. I had a leftover 4x4 that I could utilize for two of the dowels. For the remaining five pieces, I simply glued several 2 x 4's together and subsequently milled them to a square shape, then turned them on the lathe.
Initially, I did not intend to include these 'tubes,' as they complicate the harvesting of the larvae. I will need to destroy them in order to obtain the larvae. However, the tubes contribute significantly to the aesthetics of the project, prompting my decision to incorporate them.
First, we knocked off the corners to make turning a bit easier. I moved my fence to the left side of the blade.
NO, NO, NO... THIS IS DANGEROUS....Use your insert....(you may have to make it.)
Ready to go!
Set the center
Starting to turn the dowels.
Set your calipers to 2 inches
Making some progress.
Ready for a bit of sanding.
Let's cut them to length.
Don't forget to verify the depth. (5 inches)
Carefully cut the dowel, as this situation has "Kick Back" written all over it.
Better yet, remove the fence and use your sled.
Now we can mark for the tunnels. I had to order a long drill bit from our friends at Amazon.Now we can drill the holes. Find the center of the dowel, and then center punch the holes. I placed my dowels in a small vice to hold them.
Make sure the dowel is level in the vice.
And start drilling your holes.
I used a center drill be to mark these holes.
Now we can move on to the end sections.
The end sections are optional, depending on your needs and budget.
For the left side we need to cut:
1 Short side 1/2 x 4 1/4 x 11
1 Tall side 1/2 x 4 1/2 x 13 7/8
1 Back 1/2 x5 x 13 1/2
1 Roof 1/2 x 5 x 7 1/4
1 Floor 1/2 x 4 x 5
1 Shelf 1/2 x 4 x 5
2 Dowels 1/4 x 9/16 long
1 Stop Block 1/2 x 1/2 x 4 1/4
and for the Right side:
1 Tall side 1/2 x4 1/2 x 9 11/64
1 Short side 1/2 x4 1/2 x 6 9/32
1 Back 1/2 x 5 x 9 1/32
1 Roof 1/2 x 5 x 7 1/4
1 Floor 1/2 x 4 x 5
1 Shelf 1/2 x4 x 5
2 Dowels 1/4 x 9/16 long
1 Stop Block 1/2 x 5 1/2
Here are the parts for the 2 new sections. All I need to do is make the dados and rabbits.
We put them together in the same manner as the center sections.We also need create a couple "Butterfly Doors." They have slots in them to allow butterfly access. We cut these holes on the router table. are two sizes: 3/8 x 2" and 3/8 x 2.5". The2.5" slot is located in center of the door. The doors are 4 3/8 x 4 3/8. I cut mine a bit larger then adjusted during the installation. I also added a 45-degree camphor on the top of the door to ease in opening. 
Initially, identify the center of the door.
Then, carefully lower the door onto the router table and create a slot.
When the slot is done, move the fence and cut the next slot.
One can now drill holes in the doors and the sides for the dowels.
Before mounting the door, we need to paint it.
Might as well paint the roof sections as well.
Don't worry, the Butterfly door on the right was a "test" piece.
Since the center section was completed, I needed to mask it off for painting. Any overspray I can sand.
When gluing the sections, place the butterfly door one side, and then add the second side.
A base is required for the Bee House. To construct the base two of pickets were initially glued together to ensure the width. First, the ends were jointed, followed by the gluing process.
Once the glue cures, the assembly can be cut to size and the ends routed. (The boards were cut to a width of 3.5 inches prior to gluing, ensuring that each piece was uniform in size. Additionally, a refined edge was added to the base using the router.
Nothing difficult here, I just did a little round over on the edges of the base. (except for the back of the base)
When gluing the sections, place the butterfly door on one side, and then add the second side.
Now that the end sections and the base are completed, we need to join them together. I glued them and used clamps to keep them in place while the glue set. A couple of nails or screws can also be used to secure them.
The bee tubes will need be trimmed slightly to fit the house properly.
And that completes our project. ALMOST.
To finish or not to finish. Cedar and Cypress are great outdoor projects if you want the wood to age gracefully. (Like me)
So, I decided to let it age with no finish.
As usual I created two of them; however, the second one is not yet completed. I will provide an update on the second unit at a later date.
This project posed challenges, particularly due to the warping of the planks, and keeping everything square. (I did not do a great job on the squareness thing.) I have several ideas for these issues, which will be featured an upcoming episode of Fresh's Workshop.
Woodsmith also requested wider wood for the roofs and the base. My pickets measured only 5 1/2 inches, necessitating a sacrifice of the overhang in the front.
Nonetheless, I believe the final result justified the difficulties we encountered. What is your opinion? Did we come close to the Woodsmith's version?
How in the hell did I get the left and right sections reversed???? I'll never know, but I'll tell people I planned it that way. Just like I'll tell them the butterfly doors looked better this way.
I ran out of tubes and had to order more, so I will update this when they arrive, and I mount the Bee House outside.
STAY TUNED FOLKS!
So, now I need to replenish my supply of cedar planks. I think I'll let them dry for a month or so, then make another batch of Bee Houses.
I look to gaining further insights into these small that inhabit our environment.
For information on harvesting your bees, check out these links.
Harvesting Mason Bees
Mason Bees 101
I like hard copy printed books, so I found this one on Amazon.
There are also numerous YouTube videos available about Mason Bees.
I'll provide periodic updates on the status of the Bee House.
Coming up next in Fresh Workshop, we are returning to the Radio Room/Office to complete the floor moldings and a threshold. Additionally, we will be constructing a Turntable Cart to ensure that my seldom-used-Fi Turntable does not occupy precious counter space.
See you soon!
Be sure to visit some of my other blogs:
DISCLAIMER The information contained here is for ENTERTAINMENT purposes only. Working with woodworking tools can be dangerous. The user of these tools should have a basic knowledge of woodworking and be familiar with the proper use and safety precautions associated with these tools. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask. Always use the tool in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Always maintain a safe and organized work area.
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