PLYWOOD TABLE FOR MY PORCH
Thanks for joining us today here at Fresh's Workshop. If you are a first-time visitor, WELCOME. If you have been here before, THANKS for coming back.
This is the spot where we build and repair all kinds of cool stuff, along with making a ton of saw dust. (Man Glitter.)
Last time in the Workshop, we repaired a table for my friend Wallace.
TABLE REPAIR (Click on the link to see that episode)
Before we begin, let's take a moment and talk about shop safety:
Be sure to read, understand and follow all of the safety rules that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember this, there is no greater safety rule than to wear safety glasses.
While I was repairing the table for Wallace I made an extra set of legs out of Hard Maple.
And today we are going to use those legs for a smaller table that we can use on our back porch (TV room)
On thing I have always wanted to make is an end-grain table out of plywood.
Yes, I know. I am not crazy, mom had me tested.
I call this a 'poor man's' Butcher Block Table.
If you look at the inside of plywood, you can see that it has all kinds of cool laminations. Most people go to great lengths to cover these laminations, so they cannot be seen. I thought it might look good if they were in FULL VIEW and all sanded down and varnished.
And I had a bunch of cabinet grade plywood scraps. I have been saving them just for this idea.
Let us begin. I suggest you use 'cabinet grade' plywood, not the cheap stuff.
Cut 1.5" strips and set them aside. You can make them any width you want depending on how 'thick' you want your table. But I would not go less than 1.5 inches. (The number of strips will be determined by the size of your table.)
Here they are
Don't worry about the splintering. A plywood blade on the saw would have helped this issue, but I'm lazy. I also have a sander.
Here they are
Don't worry about the splintering. A plywood blade on the saw would have helped this issue, but I'm lazy. I also have a sander.
Use your sander to knock the splitters off.
Start arranging them by type of laminations. If you have some that are different, space them out.
Now you can start glueing them up.
Now you can start glueing them up.
Keep glueing!
Clamp, clamp, clamp.
Once they are dry, trim off one edge
Using the saw fence, trim off the other side. You now have a tabletop.
Now comes the time to scrape off some of the glue.
Start Sanding
I got out the BIG GUNS
Checking the legs we made last time.
Time to fill the voids with wood putty.
Let it dry
Start sanding some more
When you think you have sanded enough, go BACK and do it again. This is the MOST important step in the process. BTW, the blue painters' tape is there so the Sanding sealer does not drip down the sides... I am messy.
I use Sanding Sealer from Minwax, you can get it at your local Home Center. (Lowes) I started with FIVE coats with a light sanding in between coats. The end grain will drink up the sealer faster than I can down a six pack. As you sand, look for the shiny spots to turn dull. When all the shiny spots are gone, put on one more coat, and lightly sand again. When you hare happy with the sealer, you should buff it down with some 000 Steel Wool.
Clamp, clamp, clamp.
Once they are dry, trim off one edge
Using the saw fence, trim off the other side. You now have a tabletop.
Now comes the time to scrape off some of the glue.
Start Sanding
I got out the BIG GUNS
Checking the legs we made last time.
Time to fill the voids with wood putty.
Let it dry
Start sanding some more
When you think you have sanded enough, go BACK and do it again. This is the MOST important step in the process. BTW, the blue painters' tape is there so the Sanding sealer does not drip down the sides... I am messy.
I use Sanding Sealer from Minwax, you can get it at your local Home Center. (Lowes) I started with FIVE coats with a light sanding in between coats. The end grain will drink up the sealer faster than I can down a six pack. As you sand, look for the shiny spots to turn dull. When all the shiny spots are gone, put on one more coat, and lightly sand again. When you hare happy with the sealer, you should buff it down with some 000 Steel Wool.
My table is shorter than Wallace's, so I trimmed the legs down. Trim both the tops and bottoms in order to keep the intersection equal. If you trim just the TOP or the BOTTOM, the intersection will not be equal.
To attach the legs to the top, we will be using a runner. Here I am marking where the pilot holes will go for the top as well as the legs
Use a punch to make the holes, the take them over to the drill press and drill the pilot holes.
The two holes in the center will attach the runner to the top, while the four outer holes are for wood screws to attach the legs to the runner.
We will counter sink for the leg screws
Well, I screwed the pooch on this one. I counter-skunked the wrong side of the runner. But no worries, as it will not show.
Line up the runner in the proper location and drill the pilot hole into the top, thus marking their locations.
Here we are testing our bolt insert in a scrap piece of wood.
To attach the legs to the top, we will be using a runner. Here I am marking where the pilot holes will go for the top as well as the legs
Use a punch to make the holes, the take them over to the drill press and drill the pilot holes.
The two holes in the center will attach the runner to the top, while the four outer holes are for wood screws to attach the legs to the runner.
We will counter sink for the leg screws
Well, I screwed the pooch on this one. I counter-skunked the wrong side of the runner. But no worries, as it will not show.
Line up the runner in the proper location and drill the pilot hole into the top, thus marking their locations.
Here we are testing our bolt insert in a scrap piece of wood.
A bolt insert is like a nut on the inside, with threads on the outside. You drill a proper size hole in the wood, then using an Allen Wrench, you screw the insert into the wood. Then thread a bolt into the insert. This way the table can come apart for moving and/or storage.
In order to drill the hole in the top, I wrap tape around the bit to keep me from drilling too deep
Drill your top and insert the insert.
Tighten into the wood with an Allen Wrench.
And Bob's your Uncle.
Now we mark the leg locations on the runner and remove the bolts.
In the vice, we lined up the runner and drilled the matching pilot holes
A bit of glue and wood screws completes the building process.
We forgot a picture of the cross piece being made. Just measure from the leg X to the leg X and cut your piece to size. You can use a wood screw or bolt inserts.
Drill your top and insert the insert.
Tighten into the wood with an Allen Wrench.
And Bob's your Uncle.
Now we mark the leg locations on the runner and remove the bolts.
In the vice, we lined up the runner and drilled the matching pilot holes
A bit of glue and wood screws completes the building process.
We forgot a picture of the cross piece being made. Just measure from the leg X to the leg X and cut your piece to size. You can use a wood screw or bolt inserts.
My drill press does not have enough space to drill the center hole in the cross piece. I could do it by hand in the vice but decided to use my new wood lathe chuck.
And installing the wood insert.
Cross piece installed!
And attached to the top, ready for finishing
I started the final finish by spraying lacquer on the legs and underside of the table. It took 3 coats of Lacquer with a buffing with steel wool in between each coat.
Here is a nice shot of the side. I like the layered look.
And attached to the top, ready for finishing
I started the final finish by spraying lacquer on the legs and underside of the table. It took 3 coats of Lacquer with a buffing with steel wool in between each coat.
Here is a nice shot of the side. I like the layered look.
Once the legs and sides are done; I spray the top with lacquer. A couple of coats should do it.
For the final finish, I use a product from Rust-Oleum. (I get it from Home Depot or Rural King. Lowes does not carry it)
I have been using this for several years and have gotten great results.
Using steel wool, (000) I polish the lacquer until it's as smooth as a Hooker's bottom.
And there you have it. A nice table for our back porch. Plenty of room for the adult beverages. This was fun, and I think it turned out nice. Hey IKEA, hold my beer.
I wonder if you can turn plywood on a wood lathe????? UHMMMM.
(Spoiler Alert- Yes, you can)
Next time in Fresh's Workshop, we are making a "Menu Board." Penny and I (along with a lot of help) plan and cook a monthly luncheon for her Master Gardeners Group. Penny wants a way to inform the folks of the Lunch Menu when they arrive for the meeting. So off to the workshop we go to make up a chalk board.
See you then.
Be sure to visit some of my other blogs:
AROUND THE KITCHEN - SEE WHAT I COOK
BRIARWOOD - YOU CAN READ MY NOVELS
AUDIO CONSOLE - WHERE I AM BUILDING AN AUDIO MIXER
DISCLAIMER The information contained here is for ENTERTAINMENT purposes only. Working with woodworking tools can be dangerous. The user of these tools should have a basic knowledge of woodworking and be familiar with the proper use and safety precautions associated with these tools. Always wear appropriate personal protective equipment, such as safety glasses, ear protection, and a dust mask. Always use the tool in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and guidelines. Always maintain a safe and organized work area.
Speaking of entertainment.
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